Pictured: Fosas mating in Kirindy by Rainbow Tours client PK Wong (October 2023)
In an already very unusual country, few places measure up to Kirindy Forest when it comes to harbouring a selection of extraordinary animals and plants. For starters, I can't think of any other forest where you can see three of the world's eight species of baobab tree, including the largest (Grandidier's baobab) and the smallest ('Bottle' baobab). Standing like sentinels silently presiding over the 10,000-ha tropical dry deciduous forest, these statuesque giants are but one of the many wonders keen naturalists come to appreciate here. Famously among the international mammal-watching circles, Kirindy is the place in which to seek Madagascar's biggest carnivore, the lithe fosa (or fossa) - a nationally scarce animal, which due to its elusive nature is very difficult to spot elsewhere. If you want to try to see fosas mating, travel in October-November, as females are site-faithful so return annually to the same tree where their suitors compete for them.
Pictured: Critically Endangered Madame Berthe's mouse lemur, image taken by Rainbow Tours client PK Wong in 2023
Critically Endangered Icons
Kirindy's thriving habituated population of fosa aside, the forest's other claims to fame among international mammal-watching circles is that this is the only home of man's tiniest relative, the critically endangered Madame Berthe's mouse lemur. Around the time of the pandemic, some primatologists feared that this diminutive furball had quietly slipped into extinction. So, it's heartening to be able to share with you here that in 2022 and 2023, several Rainbow Tours clients not only managed to observe, but also obtain excellent photographs of them. Keen wildlife photographer PK Wong captured the above image in October 2023.
Pictured: Giant jumping rat at Kirindy, image by Fiona Herring
Kirindy's Other Oddities
Kirindy is also the sole locality in which ecotourists can come to seek the critically endangered giant jumping rat, which is the island's biggest rodent and strictly nocturnal. While in pre-pandemic years it was relatively easy to see, nowadays the species - unusual in that it's monogamous and pairs stay together for life - is difficult to locate unless one enlists the services of an experienced, expert guide.
Leaping Lemurs
Kirindy's grid of broad trails on flat, sandy terrain make for easy exploration. However, as previously alluded to, this is one of those biodiversity hotspots where being accompanied by a highly experienced and knowledgeable guide can make all the difference. During day walks, they'll point out species such as the endearing Verreaux's sifaka (pictured), an acrobatic lemur capable of clearing up to 20 feet between trees when pursued by fosa. These sifaka are one of eight lemur species resident in Kirindy, which claims a world record for primate density among comparably sized forests.
Kirindy's Birdlife
I've generally found Kirindy a rewarding locality for birding. Of the specialty species unique to what remains of the West Malagasy tropical dry deciduous forests, sought-after 'megaticks' our guests have notched up during the last couple of years especially, include the eccentric white-breasted mesite (pictured), which walks about on the forest floor like a clockwork toy.
Flamboyant Couas
Much easier to see than the mesites - or the lovely Schlegel's asity, found in Kirindy too - are the flamboyant couas with their bright blue face masks and long tails. Invariably, visitors encounter giant coua (pictured) sauntering about in pairs. Up in the trees, you might see its smaller, arboreal relative, the crested coua, one of Madagascar's answers to turacous.
Darwin & Madagascar - What Could've Been?
Charles Darwin never made it over to Madagascar. Had he done so though, his thoughts when seeing the incredibly diverse vanga family, would have been similarly provoked as was the case with the finches of the Galapagos. Kirindy has its share of these fascinating birds, including garrulous gangs of the biggest species, the sickle-billed vanga (pictured here). They're Madagascar's answer to woodhoopoes and behave similarly - cackling and foraging on tree trunks.
Pictured: Hook-billed vanga on its nest
There's Always Birdsong in the Air
And still on the vangas, most visitors in the Malagasy spring (September to early December) will hear the liquid whistling calls of the hook-billed and rufous vangas as part of the chorus of birdsong at Kirindy. Of course, when seen, it's hard to imagine that they're in the same family as the aforementioned sickle-billed vanga.
Pictured: Pale fork-marked lemur
When Darkness Falls
Among wildlife fans, Kirindy is renowned for being one of the best sites in Madagascar for observing nocturnal wildlife. I'd mentioned nocturnal denizens such as giant jumping rat and Madame Berthe's mouse lemur previously, but there are many more species which are far easier to observe. When I returned to Kirindy in October 2019, I found the most engaging of its six nocturnal primate species to be the fork-marked lemur. We had a wonderful time watching these large, sleek lemurs feeding on resin in the trees.
Into the Night
Night walks in Kirindy are a delightful experience. Generally, you'll be transferred from your lodge to the trailhead at the centrally located DPZ Research Station and Campsite in the latter part of the afternoon. This also happens to be when seeing some diurnally active wildilfe, such as fosa, is often possible. After a walk around the campsite, you'll be driven in your private four-wheel drive vehicle to the start of another circuit, where you'll seek mostly nocturnal lemurs. Most plentiful are grey mouse lemurs. But you should also encounter red-tailed sportive lemur (pictured), the aforementioned fork-marked lemur and, if very lucky, the fast and shy Coquerel's giant mouse lemur. The night walks tend to last for a couple of hours, after which hardcore mammal watchers might wish to take a break at the bar back in the Researchers Campsite, and then venture out again around 10pm to try for giant jumping rat.
Strange Reptiles
During my last visit to Kirindy, reptiles we managed to see included some giant hog-nosed snakes, collared iguanid lizards, big-headed day geckos, plated lizards, colourful green day geckos and the larger of the two well-known chameleons present in the park, Oustalet's chameleon. The latter is also the grand daddy of all chameleons. The one we didn't see - and with good reason as I'll explain - is the bizarre Labord's chameleon (male, pictured), which claims the world record for the tetrapod (four-legged animal) with the shortest lifespan. Typically, the Labord's chameleon spend the majority of its life (about eight months) as a developing embryo, then hatching at the start of the rainy season which lasts from December to March. They grow quickly and, after having mated and laying eggs, the adults die off.
Curious Critters
Among other reptiles, giant hog-nosed snakes (pictured) are often seen scouring the forest floor for nests of the resident collared iguanid lizards.
Protected by Tradition
I wanted to add a note about another of Kirindy's critically endangered inhabitants, the Madagascar flat-tailed tortoise. These small, highly range-restricted tortoises, known by the resident Menabe-Sakalava people as 'kapidolo', are so named as a reference for their inhabiting small parcels of forest concealing tombs. In Madagascar, ancestral veneration is the centre of the traditional belief system, so ancestors or 'Razana' are housed in tombs oftentimes more solid and expensive than dwellings of their living descendants. As forest surrounding tombs ('ala fady') are protected, the kapidolo have sometimes found secure refuges there. Like the Labord's chameleon however, only serious herpetologists visiting Kirindy in the rainy season (December to March) stand a chance of seeing it. And, like the giant jumping rat, the kapidolo is one of the rare Malagasy animals being bred ex-situ by the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust, which continues to do exemplary conservation work in Madagascar.
Pictured: On the road to Kirindy with musician Dama (Image: Derek Schuurman)
Kirindy Forest - The Travel Lowdown
I hope this little account of Kirindy Forest will pique interest in what is a truly wonderful wildlife destination; one which when visited with accomplished guides, invariably delivers a catalogue of special sightings. I'll end with a few travel tips, to help you make the most of your time there.
When to visit Kirindy
Kirindy is best in the Malagasy spring, so from beginning September through to end of November, when weather conditions are good. Expect hot and dry weather, with temperatures increasing as the season progresses. I personally would not advise going from the onset of the rains (usually December but with climate change, they can arrive earlier) through to March unless you're an ardent herpetologist. In the rainy season, aside from intense heat, sweat bees and other invertebrates are a nuisance, and roads can be impassable. But the wildlife is on top form. If you do go in the austral winter (May to August), you'll still see wildlife, albeit not to the extent that would be the case from September onwards.
Getting to Kirindy
The forest is a simple 90-minute drive to the north of the town Morondava, where there's an airport serviced by thrice-weekly flights. A bonus is that the road passes through the iconic 'Baobab Alley', one of the most requested photo stops in Madagascar. (We used the four-wheel drive vehicle in the above photo when we were driven there in 2019 by none other than Dama - a much-loved Malagasy musician, who also ran in the presidential election!).
Where to Stay in Kirindy
In terms of accommodation, there are three fairly rustic properties to choose from, depending on the mod-cons you're after: Relais du Kirindy has a welcome pool; a bit further away, Tsangajoly Lodge has air-conditioned bungalows; and in the adjacent site of Marofandilia - also part of the Menabe Antimena Protected Area, the refurbished Akiba Lodge Marofandilia is right in the forest.
Inspirational Itineraries featuring Kirindy
Our Western Madagascar Explorer individual itinerary can be done from May to late October and combines Kirindy and Baobab Alley with remote Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park and, also, far-flung Belo Sur Mer. Alternatively, if you prefer to travel as part of a small group and would enjoy visiting Menabe-Antimena Protected Area, of which Kirindy is part, then Bradt author and tour leader Daniel Austin is leading another of his highly rated small group tours for us in 2025.
Experience Madagascar with Rainbow
By clicking on the 'Enquire Now' button or calling us on 0208 131 1394, we can help tailor-make your trip to Madagascar. Our Travel Specialists specialise in destinations they know inside out, many having deeply been immersed there for years, so they can curate transformative travel experiences.
