The Menabe Antimena Protected Area is famed for its gigantic Grandidier’s baobabs (Adansonia grandidieri) – as well as two of Madagascar’s other endemic baobab species, (Adansonia rubrostipa and the large southern species A. za). Within the Protected Area, the fascinating Kirindy Forest, comprises about 10,000 hectares of tropical dry deciduous forest on flat, sandy terrain.
Getting there:
Kirindy Forest is a 90 minute drive along a variable road to the north of Morondava and along the way, visitors pass through the 'Alley of Giant Baobabs', a national monument comprised of some specimens of mostly Grandidier's baobabs, the largest of the 6 endemic Malagasy baobab species.
Wildlife:
Kirindy is the best site in which to seek the fosa (fossa), Madagascar’s largest endemic carnivore, as a few individuals became habituated up to the pandemic, were regularly spotted around the DPZ (German Primate Centre) Research Campsite. Kirindy is the only place where this formidable carnivore can be seen year-round, even in broad daylight. While our 2022 and 2023 clients reported many excellent sightings of fosa, it must be noted that observations of Kirindy's viverrids and its endemic rodents post pandemic, are somewhat reduced.
Very lucky visitors may also see the Giant jumping rat (Critically Endangered), largest of Madagascar's endemic rodents and one of the subjects of a successful captive-breeding programme by the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust. Another interesting diurnal mammal best sought here is the animated Narrow-striped mongoose or Boky boky. Lemurs to be seen by day include inquisitive groups of Red-fronted brown lemurs and the adorable, acrobatic Verreaux's sifaka.
Nocturnal walks are generally rewarding: Kirindy holds a world record for Primate density among comparably sized tropical dry forests. Regularly encountered nocturnal lemurs include Red-tailed Sportive lemur, noisy Pale fork-marked lemur, Fat-tailed dwarf lemur (in summer months only as it aestivates) and two Mouse lemurs - the abundant Gray mouse lemur and the much smaller, very scarce Madame Berthe's mouse lemur, our tiniest relative which is now classified as Critically Endangered.
Many of the birds unique to western Madagascar’s dry forests can be seen at this forest. Highlights include White-breasted mesite; Giant, Coquerel's and Crested couas; Greater and Lesser vasa parrots and a variety of Vangas. Birders should venture out on early morning walks as this is when avifauna is at its most active.
Resident reptiles include the enormous Oustalet’s chameleon and in the rainy months, the stunning Labord's chameleon; there are also Collared iguanids and a variety of skinks, geckos and snakes. In our latest visit (October 2019) we enjoyed seeing numerous butterflies.
When to visit:
Kirindy is an excellent wildlife destination year- round, but we must emphasise that an experienced local guide makes all the difference. Because of hot weather and swarms of persistent sweat-bees, we do not recommend visiting it in the rainy season (December to March), unless you are a keen herpetologist. The austral spring (September to late November) is very rewarding for mammals and birds.
Conservation:
Menabe Antimena is Madagascar's most threatened Protected Area. Driven by drought conditions from sub-arid Southern Madagascar, thousands of Southern people (Antandroy) moved to the Menabe region and in the space of a few years, village populations increased dramatically. The forests are under excruciating pressure from people clearing it for cultivation of maize and peanuts. These crops have been grown mostly for animal feed and the process has been facilitated by a corrupt operator. NGOs working hard to try to conserve this exceptional biodiversity hotspot include Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust; Chances for Nature and Fanamby.
Marofandilia Forest
About 20 minutes' drive from Kirindy, this forest is managed by the exemplary NGO Fanamby, which has its property Akiba Lodge Marofandilia there. Morning walks around the camp are rewarding; the wildlife is all around the site. Visitors should be aware however that the Kirindy guides - who work with the CNFREF (Centre de Formation et de Recherches en Environment et Forestrerie) are not permitted to guide at Marofandilia. So in Marofandilia, there are currently trackers only. (This is another reason why we provide a pre-arranged, professional guide to accompany clients during their time in the whole of Menabe Antimena).
Derek Schuurman
Travel Specialist
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